Whether you are considering adopting a spood, or a seasoned owner, each breeder may offer slightly different guidance and recommendations. It is not to say that one is right, and one is wrong, as we all learn along the way what works best for our own spiders and situations. This care sheet is meant to be a basic guide for housing, care, lighting and temperature, and feeding guidelines. As always, I am always available to answer questions or concerns and am always happy to talk spoods or mantis. Keep in mind there are many different species of jumping spiders, and while most require the same care, some do have special care instructions, and they all definitely have their own personalities. While this may seem overwhelming, especially for a beginner, it is a lot of information to take in. In reality, they are inexpensive, rewarding, and low-maintenance pets that people of all ages can enjoy. In time, I may add sections and information, so please check back regularly or reach out anytime.
Common questions asked:
1. What is a spood? A spood is merely a term of endearment for our sweet little spiders.
2. What is an instar? Often, people will refer to the “age” of the spider by saying instar, or “I” with a number associated. This indicates how many times the spider has molted. When jumping spiders hatch, they are i1, when they start to emerge from the nest, they are typically i2, and then each molt thereafter is counted. Each jumper is slightly different in how often they molt and how many times they molt before reaching maturity. In most cases, a jumper will molt 6-9 times before being considered mature with visible reproductive traits (usually about 9 months). A female will have a visible epigynum on the underside of their abdomen, which resembles a belly button. A male, at maturity, will possess a thickening of its pedipalps that resemble a comma or often said to be “boxing gloves”. It is often very challenging to properly sex a jumping spider prior to reaching maturity as their colors often change each molt, and don’t always represent their sex.
3. What does Gravid mean? Gravid basically translates to pregnant or “with eggs”. It is fairly easy to tell when a female is gravid as their abdomen gets extremely large and bulky.
4. How long do jumping spiders live? This one is a tough answer. There are many variables involved in the length of their life, but in general, captive bred jumpers live between 9 months and two years.
5. What is the difference between captive bred (CB) and a wild caught (WC) jumping spider? Well, a captive bred spider is one that has never been in the wild and bred specifically to keep indoors as a pet. A wild caught spider is one that an individual has located in the wild. There has been much debate about which is the better option, and in reality, it is a personal choice. I certainly realize that people often consider “Why would I spend money on a spider when I can just go find one outside?” A wild-caught spider often does not adapt well to being in captivity, and often requires us to release them back to the wild, and unfortunately depending on what they are eating in the wild, they often carry parasites. Additionally, it is difficult to properly determine how old they are, and almost every single wild-caught female is gravid, so unless you are well prepared to deal with potentially hundreds of babies, it is best to know the source of your spider.
6. Are they friendly? Some are super friendly, and some just want to be left alone. Have you ever heard the saying “They are more scared of you then you are of them?” It is really that simple. Human skin is something that most jumping spiders do not tend to like as it feels weird to them. Over time, with gradual handling, most will acclimate, and some will even rush over to you and can’t wait to be picked up for “uppies”. I have several that I have never handled, and that is something you have to be perfectly okay with. Despite being unable to handle them, it is still a joy to watch them in their enclosures, watch them molt and grow, watch them hunt, and just watch them do cute little spider things.
7. Do they bite? Of course, they CAN bite, but it is extremely rare for them to do so. The only time they bite is if they feel extremely cornered or threatened and feel like they might be smashed. It is their natural fear response, and if you are bitten, be aware that it often feels less than a mosquito bite and they possess nothing harmful to humans. The area may be slightly red or itchy, if anything. Of the hundreds that I have, I have never been bitten.
8. What are their housing requirements? Adult jumping spiders require an approximately 4x4x8 enclosure. If you are like me, you question whether that allows for enough space. However, spiders do not require a lot of space. Most spend much of their day relaxing in their hammocks. Jumping spiders do not build traditional webs, instead, they build little hammocks at the top of their enclosure. It is not uncommon to find that your spood has built multiple different hammocks, each serving a distinct purpose for your baby. It is imperative to avoid a top opening enclosure as the spider has spent a significant amount of time and energy building their hammock and you don’t want to risk ruining it every time you open the enclosure to feed or mist. Sub adult jumpers require even less space, often occupying a 3x3x3 or 4x4x4 space. Younger spiders such as those that are i4 or i5 can even be kept in 5oz deli cups with the lid as the base. Failure to thrive is a very real thing, and in an enclosure that is too large, the spider may have difficulty locating their food. In any enclosure, adequate cross ventilation is extremely important. Please ensure that there are plenty of air holes or vents, but be cautious of the size of the opening to ensure your spood does not escape. If, for some reason, your spood escapes, they are masters of hiding. Check window sills, or small spaces, and always look UP. Jumping spiders tend to try to find the highest location and they often go there. There are many items that can go into an enclosure, and many people decorate as they please. Please keep in mind that items can mold if not sealed properly, and avoid any sort of dyes, or chemicals that can be harmful to your spood. On a budget, webbed mesh ribbon cut into sections, and a small cocoon type hide are great options for their enclosures. Please do NOT have a dish that can accumulate water in the enclosure. Spiders drown very easily in standing water .They are very sensitive to chemicals in their enclosure as well as on your skin. Avoid lotions, perfumes, or oils. Always thoroughly wash your hands with warm water prior to handling your spider and avoid harsh chemicals in the area that they are housed in.
9. What are their temperature, lighting, and misting requirements? Most households are already at a comfortable temperature for a jumping spider. Ideally between 70-80F is best. If you live in a colder climate, or during the winter months, you may opt for additional heating, but please do not place a mat under their enclosures as it will be too warm. Humidity should be kept at a minimum of 50-60 percent and is easy to monitor with a hygrometer affordably found on Amazon. Proper humidity levels are critical for the overall health of the spider and to ensure successful molts. To mist your enclosure, get a small 1-2oz misting bottle (also found on amazon, dollar stores, and some breeders send with a spider purchase) and mist one wall of the enclosure daily. Ensure there are no large droplets and it is simply a very fine mist. This helps to keep humidity as well as provide a drink for your spider. Jumping spiders also require approximately 12 hours of light per day. Avoid placing on a window sill or in harsh direct sunlight. The use of a grow light is extremely valuable and helpful, as they do not emit excessive heat, are generally low cost, and can be placed on timers.
10. How do I know if my spider is preparing to molt? A jumping spider preparing to molt tends to build a very thick hammock, making it almost impossible to see them through the webbing. They begin to be less active, eat less or refuse to eat altogether, and spend their time storing their energy to prepare for a molt. This process can take days or weeks, and it is important not to disturb your spider during this time. During this time, it is especially important to maintain humidity levels, and even opt to mist more than once a day to ensure a successful molt. After molting, you will see the exoskeleton next to them in their hammock. Most times, they will push the exoskeleton out of the nest in their own time. In the hours and days after a molt, spiders are very fragile and soft. Once they emerge from the hammock, you may resume your normal misting and feeding schedule.
11. What do they eat and how often do I feed them? Slings (babies), and smaller sub adults generally feed on flightless fruit flies. Newly hatched slings can be fed melanogaster fruit flies which can be obtained from most local pet stores, amazon, reptile stores, and various specialty stores online. As they grow larger, the size of the food can be adjusted to feeding hydei fruit flies, which are slightly larger and despite having wings, are genetically modified to not fly. Larger jumpers and adult jumpers should be fed a variety of food such as mini or small mealworms, houseflies, bottle fly spikes, wax worms, dubia roaches, crickets, and other similar sized feeder insects. Please keep in mind that feeding of mealworms should generally be monitored as mealworms can make quick whipping movements and can injure your spood. Crickets can kick and can be aggressive, so observation and safe feeding is recommended with those insects. Feeding is not necessarily a scheduled thing. It is best to observe the size of the abdomen before feeding. Overfeeding can cause mobility issues and can cause a fall resulting in a ruptured abdomen. Pictured at the bottom of this sheet is an extremely helpful chart found on google for basic feeding guidelines.
12. How do I handle them? Jumping spiders are naturally curious. It is best to let them come to you. Open their enclosure and allow them to naturally come out and explore their surroundings. Ensure that you are located somewhere with a soft landing spot just in case they fall or jump. Jumping spiders do release silk lines as they walk, so even if they do jump or fall, they do not go far, and are typically able to catch themselves and reel themselves back up utilizing their silk lines. Sometimes, you do have to give them a little nudge to go where you want them to go if you are trying to put them in a new enclosure or back in their existing enclosure. By having a clean, soft paintbrush, very gently nudge their back end in the direction you would like them to go. While you may be nervous to handle a spider for the first time, I promise it gets easier the more you do it and the more you get to know spider behavior and movements. Do not cup them or corner them. Allow them to freely explore and roam within reason. Do not make any quick movements to avoid startling your spider. Slow and steady is always the best.